Hoorah! My debonair friend, The exquisite Silver Fox, has given me permission to share some of his recommended treasures to hunt out and sniff up – enjoy! I’ll be searching them out, smelling them and responding to them so if you are too please read, comment, respond and so on. Poems inspired by and photographic renditions of especially welcome… and now, from the Fox –
Juliette has a Gun (Lady Vengeance Extreme is a showstopping rose/patchouli)
By Kilian (the very best of Luxury)
Parfumerie Generale (Pierre Guilluame is a genius….) Musc Maori (white musk and lavish cocoa…….) and Aomassai (caramel and toasted hazelnuts licked by fire…)
Miller Harris (innovative and quirky…L’Air de Rien, created for Jane Birkin, is a skanky masterpiece) Also from Miller Harris, the haunting Fleurs de Sel, a rustle of sedge by salt marshes, a Breton idyll, herbaceous, crisp and impeccably constructed.
Etat Libre d’Orange (sexy porny and very clever) So many, so little time….. Like This, Mathilde Bijaoui’s pumpkin-tinted masterpiece created for Tilda Swinton, Delicious Closet Queen, nail varnish, lipstick and violence, Charogne, a dark and shocking scent of rawhide with melted rose, a peek at the beast within. And of course Tom of Finland, a leather classic, faded suede and Harley Davidson seats, 70s bathhouses and dizzying levels of styrax. One of the most innovative and provocative perfume houses around.
Le Labo (the Rose is beautiful, as is the Patchouli)
Nez a Nez (Bal Musqué … a velveteen sweeping scent, a woman fleeing a ball at midnight dressed in black, quite extraordinary. Immortelle Marilyn, a white and and frozen portrait in fur and glass of Marilyn Monroe, touches of gloss, spice and resins, weird and wonderful. Ambre à Sade, a powerful dense sweet amber, Sadean in its corruptive design, devastating in concept.)
Les Parfums Lubin (Idole is magnificent)
Les Editions Frederic Malle (of course), though not all… controversial I know. They are not all good. But Lipstick Rose, a powdered beauty. Portrait of Lady, too strong for some, but putting the thorns defiantly back on the rose, Fleur de Cassie , bestial and filthy, skin under corsets and howling Crazy Horse dancers and Dans Tes Bras, because it smells like fucked beach skin. Simple really.
The Different Company (work of Jean Claude Ellena and his talented daughter Celine, best Iris in the business) Of course the Bois d’Iris, it radiates beauty like light through stained glass and the intoxicating Jasmin de Nuit, with it’s whispers of star anise.